So we've been in Darjeeling for about 4 days now and it has been a much welcomed relief from the hassles and the heat of the rest of India. The days have been pretty relaxed here. We've spent most of the time just wandering around and exploring this nice little hill station town.
For the first two night we stayed in a hotel closer to the main road in town and I believe we were the only two people in the hotel. Every time we left or came back we had to have the front door unlocked and had to turn on a the few lights that led down a dark, damp hallway to our room. The room itself wasn't that bad...fairly clean, complete with a squat toilet and about 20 minutes of hot water every evening, but it was on a main road and the street noise from the trucks driving past all night and the dogs barking made for some very light sleep.
We decided to switch hotels yesterday and found a much nice hotel for only 2 dollars more a night that has 24hr hot water and some nice views since it is higher up on the hill.
The other day we took about a 45 minute walk from town to visit the Darjeeling Zoo and the Himalayan Mountaineering Institute, which are both housed on the same grounds. The Zoo was awesome and they are more of a Himalayan Endangered Species Sanctuary. They are the only zoo to successfully bread and keep Tibetan Wolves and they had a large population of Endangered Snow Leopards and Red Panda's. There was one tiger exhibit where there was only a chain link fence between a huge tiger and myself. I was able to literally get within inches of this huge power animal. It was pretty intense looking into its eyes and knowing how easily it could kill me in the wild.
The Himalayan Mountaineering Institute was also really cool. They had a museum on mountaineering and on Everest with a lot of antique climbing gear that was actually used on expeditions. The institute also still holds courses for rock climbing and mountaineering which are only a couple hundred dollars for a month long course. A similar course in the U.S. would easily cost a couple thousand....it was pretty tempting to join up with one of their courses considering it is some of the best instruction in the world.
Other then that we have been wandering thought a lot of Tibetan and Indian shops that they have in town and drinking lots of tea of course.... we are in Darjeeling after all.
We also have visited some really interesting Tibetan Buddhist Monasteries and temples that are scattered through the hills hear. One was the Bhutia Busty Monastery that holds the original copy of the Tibetan Book of the dead.
It's neat to have such a mixture of culture in this town. The main language here is Nepali, although we are technically in India. This area used to belong to Nepal and China still does not recognize it as part of India. On top of that the state of Darjeeling and Sikkim are both trying to become independent states of India which has caused a little bit of political instability in the region. As we were driving up we met a road block and were delayed for a while until we were allowed to pass. Other then that its mostly peace full demonstrations and signs everywhere trying to claim their independent state "Ghorkaland."
Today we are going to arrange a permit for Sikkim, as you cannot enter that state without one and then hopefully tommorrow afternoon we will be headed further up towards the Himalayas and hopefully to do a little trekking.
I tried to upload pictures for about an hr yesterday without success as you can tell be the one lonely picture below. I may have to wait until we get to a larger town with a little better Internet connection. Until then you'll just have to use your imagination. That's all for now.
Sunday, March 9, 2008
Friday, March 7, 2008
Jaipur-Delhi-Across Northern India-Darjeeling
Alright .... so a lot has happened since I last updated so I will try and be brief about it all.
Jaipur was a really fun town. The First night there Teresa and I got an insiders tour of Jaipur with a rickshaw driver named Shakir. He was 21 and spoke pretty good English (as well as Hindi, Rajastani, and French) and he knew a ton about Jaipur.
We first went up to the Monkey Temple or Temple of the Sun God which overlooked Jaipur. It was pretty amazing to finally be out of the hustle and bustle of the city streets and see how massive the City of Jaipur really is. The sun was setting and you could hear the sounds of 3 million people below us living their lives. Hindi music blaring, kids playing cricket, horns...of course there was lots and lots of horns. In addition to all the shrines and temples along the walk up to the monkey temple there was also a bit of wild life, lots of monkeys, cows, dogs, rats and even a Cobra that a guy was charming out of a basket.
After the Monkey temple we headed to the Water Palace which was glowing a magnificent pink color by this time in the evening. We only stopped here for a few minutes to take a few photos and then Shakir took us to a factory where they hand sew floor rugs. Now this is a crazy time consuming process. We got to see all the different steps, from where they were sewn, to where the where trimmed and melted from behind. Very interesting to see all the hard work that goes into making one of those rugs that costs so much back home. Of course at the end they did try and sell one to us, and at a very good price (probably 1/6 of what you'd pay in the U.S.) but we have no use for a rug of that size at the moment. We also got to see some beautiful Saris and Shawls from the textile plant up stairs but we didn't bother purchasing any of those either.
Then Shakir took us to the "real" Jaipur as he called it. We went to the market where no tourist really goes. And this was the place to be that night. Thousand of people crowded the street, by foot, by rickshaw, by bike. People everywhere. There were Dead animals hanging from booths, animals in cages or tied down ready to be slaughtered, fresh food piled high, incense burning, Hindi music blaring, horns honking. This place was really alive. Full of color and smells. It was fund just experiencing that for a while.
The next day we did some more "touristy" things. We started by visiting some amazing marble tombs of some of the Kings of Jaipur. They were each ornately carved by hand and they were massive.
Then it was onto the Amber Fort, probably the most touristy place yet. There was about a 15 minute walk up to the fort where buses were unloading tourists who were immediately being surrounded by touts...and the amazing thing is these tourists were actually buying the crap that they were having shoved in their faces. I guess that's what happens when you're stuck on a bus all the time... no real choice as where to shop.
Anyways, Teresa and I spent a long time wandering around this massive fort. There are endless hallways and door ways to go through and we managed to see most of the fort and make our way out with out a guide.
After the fort Shakir took us to a little locals only place for some lunch. It's amazing that no matter where you are in India that people are so welcoming and willing to help (for the most part). Without a clue to what we were ordering we had some food suggested for us and we agreed. It was some of the best food thus far but after lunch I started feeling a little ill so Teresa and I decided to go back and take a lil nap in the Hotel.
This is where things started to take an ugly turn. Within an hr or so I had a raging fever and it continued for the next couple of days along with a sore throat, runny nose, and a cough that I still have today... We ended up having to miss our train as I was going on my 3rd day with a high fever and I wanted to see a doctor. Luckily we were able to stay in our hotel for 1 more night and that day I got some much needed antibiotics and some more rest.
That day we also spent frantically trying to book other train tickets since we were now stuck in Jaipur with no hotel for the next day. The Internet at the hotel was being really fickle and despite numerous attempts we were unable to book a train to anywhere.
The next day we woke up checked out of the hotel and walked down to the train station hoping for the best. We were in luck! Some how we managed to book a train for that day to Delhi and then from Delhi to New jalpaiguri(which is near Darjeeling) the next day.
We arrived back in Delhi at Midnight and went to 5 different hotels till we finally found one with an open room. It had to be one of the worst places to stay in Delhi. Small dank rooms, hadn't been cleaned in years.. People sleeping on the floor...funky smells and noises coming from everywhere... It was just plain gross. Luckily we only had to stay for a couple hours until we went to catch our train so we slept very lightly and uncomfortably for that night.
The next day our train left from the Old Delhi Station, and turns out our train had been delayed for 6 hours. Good thing we arrived at 5am! There are absolutely no white people at the Old Delhi station and spent the whole morning getting stars and comments etc.
Luckily we met a really nice guy from Manali who helped reassure us that we were indeed waiting on the correct platform(it had changed 4 times earlier that morning) and with some luck and some pushing we finally made it onto our train, which was to be our home for then next 37hrs. Teresa and I both had the top bunks in our berth and it was nice to kind of have our own space...but the grumpy old men underneath us never sat up long enough to allow us to sit down there and enjoy the view very much...
So after 37 hrs on the train we arrived in New jalpaiguri at 11:45pm and found a hotel to sleep in for the night. This hotel was clean and close to the train station but had one peculiar thing about it...if BLARED weird Hindi chants and bells and drums from megaphones on top of its roof all night long. Somehow we managed to sleep though the night and caught a car up to Darjeeling in the morning.
The drive up here, although very beautiful, was kind of a scary one. lots of cliffs and narrows sections where I swear we were either going off the side or into an on coming truck.
We made and and found a nice little hotel for 7 dollars a night and we are off to do some exploring. Just thought I'd give a quick update! (yes pictures soon I promise!!)
Jaipur was a really fun town. The First night there Teresa and I got an insiders tour of Jaipur with a rickshaw driver named Shakir. He was 21 and spoke pretty good English (as well as Hindi, Rajastani, and French) and he knew a ton about Jaipur.
We first went up to the Monkey Temple or Temple of the Sun God which overlooked Jaipur. It was pretty amazing to finally be out of the hustle and bustle of the city streets and see how massive the City of Jaipur really is. The sun was setting and you could hear the sounds of 3 million people below us living their lives. Hindi music blaring, kids playing cricket, horns...of course there was lots and lots of horns. In addition to all the shrines and temples along the walk up to the monkey temple there was also a bit of wild life, lots of monkeys, cows, dogs, rats and even a Cobra that a guy was charming out of a basket.
After the Monkey temple we headed to the Water Palace which was glowing a magnificent pink color by this time in the evening. We only stopped here for a few minutes to take a few photos and then Shakir took us to a factory where they hand sew floor rugs. Now this is a crazy time consuming process. We got to see all the different steps, from where they were sewn, to where the where trimmed and melted from behind. Very interesting to see all the hard work that goes into making one of those rugs that costs so much back home. Of course at the end they did try and sell one to us, and at a very good price (probably 1/6 of what you'd pay in the U.S.) but we have no use for a rug of that size at the moment. We also got to see some beautiful Saris and Shawls from the textile plant up stairs but we didn't bother purchasing any of those either.
Then Shakir took us to the "real" Jaipur as he called it. We went to the market where no tourist really goes. And this was the place to be that night. Thousand of people crowded the street, by foot, by rickshaw, by bike. People everywhere. There were Dead animals hanging from booths, animals in cages or tied down ready to be slaughtered, fresh food piled high, incense burning, Hindi music blaring, horns honking. This place was really alive. Full of color and smells. It was fund just experiencing that for a while.
The next day we did some more "touristy" things. We started by visiting some amazing marble tombs of some of the Kings of Jaipur. They were each ornately carved by hand and they were massive.
Then it was onto the Amber Fort, probably the most touristy place yet. There was about a 15 minute walk up to the fort where buses were unloading tourists who were immediately being surrounded by touts...and the amazing thing is these tourists were actually buying the crap that they were having shoved in their faces. I guess that's what happens when you're stuck on a bus all the time... no real choice as where to shop.
Anyways, Teresa and I spent a long time wandering around this massive fort. There are endless hallways and door ways to go through and we managed to see most of the fort and make our way out with out a guide.
After the fort Shakir took us to a little locals only place for some lunch. It's amazing that no matter where you are in India that people are so welcoming and willing to help (for the most part). Without a clue to what we were ordering we had some food suggested for us and we agreed. It was some of the best food thus far but after lunch I started feeling a little ill so Teresa and I decided to go back and take a lil nap in the Hotel.
This is where things started to take an ugly turn. Within an hr or so I had a raging fever and it continued for the next couple of days along with a sore throat, runny nose, and a cough that I still have today... We ended up having to miss our train as I was going on my 3rd day with a high fever and I wanted to see a doctor. Luckily we were able to stay in our hotel for 1 more night and that day I got some much needed antibiotics and some more rest.
That day we also spent frantically trying to book other train tickets since we were now stuck in Jaipur with no hotel for the next day. The Internet at the hotel was being really fickle and despite numerous attempts we were unable to book a train to anywhere.
The next day we woke up checked out of the hotel and walked down to the train station hoping for the best. We were in luck! Some how we managed to book a train for that day to Delhi and then from Delhi to New jalpaiguri(which is near Darjeeling) the next day.
We arrived back in Delhi at Midnight and went to 5 different hotels till we finally found one with an open room. It had to be one of the worst places to stay in Delhi. Small dank rooms, hadn't been cleaned in years.. People sleeping on the floor...funky smells and noises coming from everywhere... It was just plain gross. Luckily we only had to stay for a couple hours until we went to catch our train so we slept very lightly and uncomfortably for that night.
The next day our train left from the Old Delhi Station, and turns out our train had been delayed for 6 hours. Good thing we arrived at 5am! There are absolutely no white people at the Old Delhi station and spent the whole morning getting stars and comments etc.
Luckily we met a really nice guy from Manali who helped reassure us that we were indeed waiting on the correct platform(it had changed 4 times earlier that morning) and with some luck and some pushing we finally made it onto our train, which was to be our home for then next 37hrs. Teresa and I both had the top bunks in our berth and it was nice to kind of have our own space...but the grumpy old men underneath us never sat up long enough to allow us to sit down there and enjoy the view very much...
So after 37 hrs on the train we arrived in New jalpaiguri at 11:45pm and found a hotel to sleep in for the night. This hotel was clean and close to the train station but had one peculiar thing about it...if BLARED weird Hindi chants and bells and drums from megaphones on top of its roof all night long. Somehow we managed to sleep though the night and caught a car up to Darjeeling in the morning.
The drive up here, although very beautiful, was kind of a scary one. lots of cliffs and narrows sections where I swear we were either going off the side or into an on coming truck.
We made and and found a nice little hotel for 7 dollars a night and we are off to do some exploring. Just thought I'd give a quick update! (yes pictures soon I promise!!)
Friday, February 29, 2008
We've arrived!
Sorry it took so long to post but the Internet has been really hit or miss around here. I've safely arrived in India and here's a brief overview of what I have been up to so far.
Day 1:
Landed in Delhi at 1:30 am after a 25 hour flight from Colorado. As soon as the plane touched down I could smell/taste the pollution in the air. I guess almost half of the flights to Delhi are canceled or delayed due to all the smog. We made it though customs pretty easily and then found our bags and made it into a crowd of people waiting to pick people up. It was a great relief to see my name on a sign as I had booked a hotel over the Internet and tried to arrange a hotel pick up since getting taxi/rickshaw drivers to take you where you want to go it a big hassle around here. Anyways as soon as I made eye contact with the man he signaled for Teresa and I to follow him as he dashed through tons of taxi drivers, beggars, touts, and people sleeping on the floor. He led us out into a dark and sketchy parking lot and proceeded to wake up to boys who were sleeping in a car outside and told us "you go with them, I have more people to take." Now this raised a red flag in my head since I have heard tons and tons of stories of how the taxi drivers always take you to the wrong place claiming your hotel is "overbooked" or "doesn't exist" or any number of things just to take you to another one so they can make a large commission on the deal. After some discussion I hesitantly agreed to go with the kid and thus began our first driving experience in India. Now most people say the driving here is crazy and that are no rules just lots of horns, close calls, and praying. But I didn't find the driving here all that bad. The goal is to go as fast as you can and pass as many people, cars, cows, buses, elephants, etc as you can while honking your horn the whole time. Riding in rickshaws has become one of my new favourite things to do. Anyways so after about 40 minutes of driving, passing 2 car accidents, dozens of people sleeping on the roads, cars, near burning fires in parking lots, we started heading into a really sketchy looking part of town. The driver didn't really speak English and despite my doubts I let him keep driving. We made our way down dozens of alley ways, packs of dogs were roaming around and there wasn't much light in the area and then we finally pulled up in front of the hotel that I had booked. No hassles, No trying to get more money, nothing. I felt like an ass for doubting the kid and we made our way into the hotel.
The hotel we booked, Hotel Grand Godwin, is probably one of the nicer hotels in the Pahar Ganj area of new Delhi, which is known for is backpacker hotels, drugs, and seedy people. But it was close to the train station and is where most backpackers hang out. After waking up the hotel manager, being escorted to our rooms and given free drinks we passed out to the sounds of horns honking, people yelling, and dogs barking. Welcome to India!
Day 2:
After arriving really late and being pretty intimidated by all that we had seen driving in last night we made our way up to the roof of our hotel (where the restaurant is) and had one of the best continental breakfast's I've ever had. After looking around outside we decided that Pahar Ganj really isn't as scary in the day time and decided to jump right in and Had outside.
Our goal was to get a rickshaw driver to take us to the main bazaar, as soon as we stepped out side we were basically surrounded by "touts" offering to take us here or there, trying to get us to go to there shops etc and a few beggars. Eventually we broke through and made it to what looked like a nice young guy in a rickshaw. We asked him to take us to a hotel that is located on the main bazaar and he agreed. Now this guy was very nice and spoke very good English. As soon as he started talked about this travel agency over and over again I knew we were not going to get where we wanted to go.
Sure enough in about 20 minutes, and about 4 miles from where we wanted to be, we pulled up to a travel agency and the driver claimed he did not know where the hotel was and we should go talk to the travel agency. I argued a bit but then agreed to just get out and have a look around for myself.
We managed to make it on our own to most of the places we needed to go and decided we had a lot of things to learn about dealing with people in Delhi.
Day 3:
Woke up to another lovely breakfast on the roof and decided to try our hand at the outside world once again. This time we decided to walk down to the main bazaar ourselves and do a little shopping.
It's amazing how tiring it is to just walk a few blocks in Delhi with there always being someone asking for money, trying to get you on their rickshaw, or trying to get you into their shops.
We managed to spend less the $7.00 that day on a shirt, a shawl, a pair of pants, and a nice lunch in the Main Bazaar area. Despite that sounding like really good deal, I realized that even though my mom had taught me how to bargain hard we still managed to get ripped off everywhere we went.
We decided that after downing our new attire that we would try and visit one of the largest Mosques in India and managed to get a rickshaw over there for $1, should have cost us 25 cents...
As soon as we began walking up to the Mosque the stairs started again, as you can not go anywhere in India without attracting attention. But this time is was different and a lot more intimadating. When one of the guys asked where I was I had said without thinking "America" since that has been a favourable answer to most Indians, but after realising we were surrounded by a lot of Muslims things started to get really uncomfortable. We left our shoes at the front, got royally ripped off on the admission price and was basically forced to follow a "guide" who then charged us more money. As we were entering the Mosque a crowd began to gather around us and Teresa was force to wear some more clothing to cover herself up. Apparently during this time we were also being yelled and spit at by some younger kids around the outside of the Mosque. After spending only a few minutes there we left in a hurry.
That was probably the only time I had felt truly uncomfortable here and am not planning on visiting any more Mosques.
We called it a day after having an over-priced meal across the street from our hotel and went to bed early since we had to catch an early train to Jaipur.
Day 4:
Woke up about every 45 minutes thinking I had missed the alarm and we were going to miss the train. The sound of dogs fighting all night along with a man who screamed for 2 hours didn't really ease my fears of walked to the train station in the dark. Luckily we snagged an outrageously over-priced rick-shaw outside the hotel and made it to the railway station.
Most of the signs in the railway station are in Hindi but by a stoke of luck and some guessing we made it onto our first Indian train.
The train ride was really nice and they fed us a good sized break feast and two tea times with snacks. We saw alot of the countryside, which was gorgeous, but we also saw a lot of the slums in Delhi and some of the poorest people I have ever seen in person.
All around Delhi and into the countryside there where houses made out of piles of bricks with whatever they could find thrown on top for roofs. And those where the lucky people. Evey where there are people sleeping on the ground, under tarps, on the streets. It's really an experience to see these things first hand.
Now we are in Jaipur and about to go on a rickshaw ride up to the "monkey temple". I'll post more about that later as well as some pictures.
Day 1:
Landed in Delhi at 1:30 am after a 25 hour flight from Colorado. As soon as the plane touched down I could smell/taste the pollution in the air. I guess almost half of the flights to Delhi are canceled or delayed due to all the smog. We made it though customs pretty easily and then found our bags and made it into a crowd of people waiting to pick people up. It was a great relief to see my name on a sign as I had booked a hotel over the Internet and tried to arrange a hotel pick up since getting taxi/rickshaw drivers to take you where you want to go it a big hassle around here. Anyways as soon as I made eye contact with the man he signaled for Teresa and I to follow him as he dashed through tons of taxi drivers, beggars, touts, and people sleeping on the floor. He led us out into a dark and sketchy parking lot and proceeded to wake up to boys who were sleeping in a car outside and told us "you go with them, I have more people to take." Now this raised a red flag in my head since I have heard tons and tons of stories of how the taxi drivers always take you to the wrong place claiming your hotel is "overbooked" or "doesn't exist" or any number of things just to take you to another one so they can make a large commission on the deal. After some discussion I hesitantly agreed to go with the kid and thus began our first driving experience in India. Now most people say the driving here is crazy and that are no rules just lots of horns, close calls, and praying. But I didn't find the driving here all that bad. The goal is to go as fast as you can and pass as many people, cars, cows, buses, elephants, etc as you can while honking your horn the whole time. Riding in rickshaws has become one of my new favourite things to do. Anyways so after about 40 minutes of driving, passing 2 car accidents, dozens of people sleeping on the roads, cars, near burning fires in parking lots, we started heading into a really sketchy looking part of town. The driver didn't really speak English and despite my doubts I let him keep driving. We made our way down dozens of alley ways, packs of dogs were roaming around and there wasn't much light in the area and then we finally pulled up in front of the hotel that I had booked. No hassles, No trying to get more money, nothing. I felt like an ass for doubting the kid and we made our way into the hotel.
The hotel we booked, Hotel Grand Godwin, is probably one of the nicer hotels in the Pahar Ganj area of new Delhi, which is known for is backpacker hotels, drugs, and seedy people. But it was close to the train station and is where most backpackers hang out. After waking up the hotel manager, being escorted to our rooms and given free drinks we passed out to the sounds of horns honking, people yelling, and dogs barking. Welcome to India!
Day 2:
After arriving really late and being pretty intimidated by all that we had seen driving in last night we made our way up to the roof of our hotel (where the restaurant is) and had one of the best continental breakfast's I've ever had. After looking around outside we decided that Pahar Ganj really isn't as scary in the day time and decided to jump right in and Had outside.
Our goal was to get a rickshaw driver to take us to the main bazaar, as soon as we stepped out side we were basically surrounded by "touts" offering to take us here or there, trying to get us to go to there shops etc and a few beggars. Eventually we broke through and made it to what looked like a nice young guy in a rickshaw. We asked him to take us to a hotel that is located on the main bazaar and he agreed. Now this guy was very nice and spoke very good English. As soon as he started talked about this travel agency over and over again I knew we were not going to get where we wanted to go.
Sure enough in about 20 minutes, and about 4 miles from where we wanted to be, we pulled up to a travel agency and the driver claimed he did not know where the hotel was and we should go talk to the travel agency. I argued a bit but then agreed to just get out and have a look around for myself.
We managed to make it on our own to most of the places we needed to go and decided we had a lot of things to learn about dealing with people in Delhi.
Day 3:
Woke up to another lovely breakfast on the roof and decided to try our hand at the outside world once again. This time we decided to walk down to the main bazaar ourselves and do a little shopping.
It's amazing how tiring it is to just walk a few blocks in Delhi with there always being someone asking for money, trying to get you on their rickshaw, or trying to get you into their shops.
We managed to spend less the $7.00 that day on a shirt, a shawl, a pair of pants, and a nice lunch in the Main Bazaar area. Despite that sounding like really good deal, I realized that even though my mom had taught me how to bargain hard we still managed to get ripped off everywhere we went.
We decided that after downing our new attire that we would try and visit one of the largest Mosques in India and managed to get a rickshaw over there for $1, should have cost us 25 cents...
As soon as we began walking up to the Mosque the stairs started again, as you can not go anywhere in India without attracting attention. But this time is was different and a lot more intimadating. When one of the guys asked where I was I had said without thinking "America" since that has been a favourable answer to most Indians, but after realising we were surrounded by a lot of Muslims things started to get really uncomfortable. We left our shoes at the front, got royally ripped off on the admission price and was basically forced to follow a "guide" who then charged us more money. As we were entering the Mosque a crowd began to gather around us and Teresa was force to wear some more clothing to cover herself up. Apparently during this time we were also being yelled and spit at by some younger kids around the outside of the Mosque. After spending only a few minutes there we left in a hurry.
That was probably the only time I had felt truly uncomfortable here and am not planning on visiting any more Mosques.
We called it a day after having an over-priced meal across the street from our hotel and went to bed early since we had to catch an early train to Jaipur.
Day 4:
Woke up about every 45 minutes thinking I had missed the alarm and we were going to miss the train. The sound of dogs fighting all night along with a man who screamed for 2 hours didn't really ease my fears of walked to the train station in the dark. Luckily we snagged an outrageously over-priced rick-shaw outside the hotel and made it to the railway station.
Most of the signs in the railway station are in Hindi but by a stoke of luck and some guessing we made it onto our first Indian train.
The train ride was really nice and they fed us a good sized break feast and two tea times with snacks. We saw alot of the countryside, which was gorgeous, but we also saw a lot of the slums in Delhi and some of the poorest people I have ever seen in person.
All around Delhi and into the countryside there where houses made out of piles of bricks with whatever they could find thrown on top for roofs. And those where the lucky people. Evey where there are people sleeping on the ground, under tarps, on the streets. It's really an experience to see these things first hand.
Now we are in Jaipur and about to go on a rickshaw ride up to the "monkey temple". I'll post more about that later as well as some pictures.
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